Step Two - The Washing Process and the Formula

First, when you pick apart the kimono, think about using the collar for wash testing. It is constructed from two very narrow pieces and is perfect for testing.

Please note that because kimono have primarily been dry cleaned, the fabric will smell like a dry cleaner when you wash it. Your whole house will smell like a dry cleaner until the water evaporates. No, this is not the fun part. But I have found no way around it. Once the fabric is washed, the dry-cleaning smell should evaporate.

Always wash the exterior fabric of the kimono, the lining and the edging of the kimono as separate colors – no matter how close the colors appear.

My most viable washing method is to use a surfactant and a concoction of other additives. A surfactant is what we hand dyers use to keep the dye that did not adhere to the fabric in suspension during the wash so that it does not stick to lighter portions of our fabric.

Ingredients for Washing Hand Dyed Fabric:

• Synthrapol or Dharma Dyers Detergent (Surfactant) - both can be purchased from Dharma Trading Company.

• Calgon Liquid Water Softener – I bought this at Walmart.

Once I have tested for colorfastness, I will sometimes add a tablespoon of Clorox Color Bleach during another test to see if that helps to brighten the white.

 Here is the formula I have had the most success with:

For your test fabric (Reminder, this is a separate test of each type of fabric in the kimono. Never mix two different types of fabric, even if they are the same or similar colors.)

Using a bucket or a sink, mix:

• 1 quart of cold water.

• 1 capful of either Synthrapol or Dharma Dyers Detergent. (a capful is equal to about ½ teaspoon).

• 1 teaspoon of Calgon Liquid Water Softener.

• ½ of a Color Catcher.

Once the water is mixed, add 1 small piece of fabric (I start with a piece about 5x5 inches if I am concerned about colorfastness) and hand wash. Rinse in running cold water. Hang to dry with clothes pins to weigh down the fabric so that it dries fairly smooth. Check for bleeding, and examine the color catcher for any signs of bleeding.

Do not try to wash all of the outer fabric of a kimono without at least one test – two tests are better.

I have had some success with washing several types of kimono fabric in my washer on the hand wash setting. However, start by handwashing and learn how your fabric behaves before attempting anything in your washer!

For the remaining fabric, of that type, mix:

• 1/8 Cup Synthrapol or Dharma Dyers Detergent for silk / ¼ Cup for Cotton lining.

• ½ Capful of Calgon Liquid Water Softener.

• 2-4 Color Catchers.

Hang the strips to dry with a weight clipped to the bottom of each strip. I’ve even used clip hangers as weights. Just use something to keep the fabric stretched while drying. Some people use long boards to pin the fabric, but I have not needed one because I live in a very dry climate. The thin fabric of a kimono is dry here in less than two hours when I hang it out on my porch. Note: Avoid hanging the fabric in the sun because the fabric can fade quickly, and the heat of the sun can affect the shrink rate.

Meisen test pieces and color catcher - hand wash in a bucket

I have disassembled about eight kimonos so far and each one was constructed differently and used very different fabrics with varying degrees of colorfastness. I have tried to apply my knowledge of dyeing techniques to help me wash kimono fabric carefully. If you will take these steps, you can also disassemble kimono to make your art projects.